Living in Nong Khai, Thailand

Nong Khai was once written up in Modern Maturity as one of the Top 20 places in the world in which to retire.

But when one looks carefully at the author's criteria for rating the area, numerous locations in Thailand would rate about as well.

But, as a buddy likes to say , "Nong Khai ain't bad."

This easy going provincial capital perched on the banks of the Mekong in Thailand's northeast, or Issan, has a nice feel. • Reasonable to light traffic
• Inexpensive food and drink
• A pleasant atmosphere
• Acceptable and inexpensive housing
• Reasonable "western" shopping

Another major plus for Nong Khai is the Laotian capitol of Ventiane. Ventiane is a visa and one hour away across the " Friendsahip Bridge". Shopping excursions to Laos are simple and realistic, although visas are a bit expensive at around US$30.

Major shopping is also available in nearby Udorn Thani, 51 km south along a major highway ... or by train.

Train Travel The ability to get to and away from Nong Khai by train is another plus. The rail line runs south through Udorn, Khon Kaen, Korat, Ayuttaya and Bangkok. Last time I rode they didn't have an air con sleeper, but ...

Thai Airways has daily flights to Udorn with minibus service to Nong Khai.

By road Nong Khai is easy and straightforward. It is a long days drive from Bangkok. Express buses run out of the Northern Bus Terminal in Bangkok.

Nong Khai seems to be isolated from the tourist centers of Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Pattaya and Phuket; but the isolation is somewhat mitigated by the surrounding countryside.

Udorn is an easy day trip. Loei, Nakorn Phanom, Sakorn Nakorn, Khon Kaen and Mukduhan are great overnight or weekend jaunts.

Ban Chiang, 50 km east of Udorn, is one of the oldest archeological sites in Asia. They have an acceptable museum and the village is very pleasant.

For the intrepid hiker whose interest is dinosaur fossils, an area west of the lake outside Khon Kaen will hold some interest.

Much of the allure of Issan is being there. A drive along the Mekong from Nong Khai to Nakorn Phanom; stopping at riverside towns for coffee, soaking up the syrupy simplicity, can be spiritually invigorating.

Issan people are ethnic Lao and have an extraordinaly pleasant manner.

Safety Don't ride your motorbike too close to the river; or lean too far oover the safety railin of the restaurants that cantilever above the Mekong. Anything else is common sense.

• ATMs and currency exchanges are common
• Most Thai banks have branches in Nong Khai
• Interest earned on fixed deposit accounts is taxable at 15% and collected by the bank.

Some Meeting Places - Getting acquainted in Nong Khai depends primarily on you. The town gets quite a number tourists, visiting expats and visa runner. Sometimes it seems like a mini UN with so many nationalities present.

The only one I know of is the VFW in Udorn. The post is quite active and one of the largest in Thailand. They have Christmas, Easter and July 4th festivities that are open to all. Check at T & J Restaurant off Ring Road, just west of the Udorn/Nong Khai road.

Mostly Thai food; Issan Thai food, which is truly good for the soul. These places are also where the local expats tend to congregate.

Nong Khai has at least one department store & supermarket, complete with KFC and Pizza.

Just down the road at Udorn, one can find a Makro, Lotus and a major shopping mall.

Hotels and guest houses are cheap at Bt 200 - 700. There is at least one condo. One housing estate offers attractive bungalow style monthly rentals at Bt 3,000 - 4,000. Here are some Northeast Thailand hotel reviews.

Caution!!! If you plan to travel to Nong Khai in early October, beware of traffic and problems in getting a place to stay. A lighted boat parade festival coincides with a phenomenon called the "Naga Fireballs".

Roads are packed, hotels and guest houses double the room rate and still have no vacancies.

The area has several golf courses. One is at a contry club and top quality.

Another has so many hazards it will make you give up the game.

Nong Khai may not be for everyone, but, "It ain't bad."